FASHION AS MEDIA: THE ROLE OF CLOTHING IN SHAPING SOCIAL NARRATIVES

Abstract

This paper looks at fashion as a way to shape social narratives, seeing clothes not just as something to look good in, but also as a way to express identity, political change, and social moods. Objective. The study aims to determine how fashion, primarily contemporary designer reinterpretations of Ukrainian folk costumes, functions as a medium that transmits social narratives, political messages, and collective memory. The central focus of the analysis is the symbolism of ornamentation, color schemes, and design structures that create a dialogue between historical heritage and contemporary cultural processes.Methodology. The study is based on an interdisciplinary approach that includes: (1) historical and ethnographic analysis of 96 museum and private collections; (2) cultural semiotics used to interpret visual codes; (3) content analysis of 220 images from runway shows and social media platforms between 2014 and 2024; (4) case studies of five leading brands (Gunia Project, Varenyky Fashion, Oberig, Foberini, and Hvoya); (5) a critical review of more than thirty legislative acts regulating the use of national dress from the sixteenth century to the present; and (6) semi-structured interviews with 18 designers and 42 consumers, which enabled a comparison of creative intentions and public expectations.The study finds that fashion in Ukraine has become a platform for expressing political positions, as evidenced by the appearance of traditional clothing in public protests and cultural events. It also explores the influence of globalization on the interpretation of national costumes, highlighting the balance between preserving authenticity and adapting to modern market demands. The research emphasizes that fashion acts as a medium, transmitting social narratives, reinforcing national identity symbols, and reflecting collective memory.Scientific Novelty. For the first time, the study establishes that the modernized Ukrainian folk costume represents an autonomous cross-media code capable of simultaneously performing aesthetic, communicative, and political functions.It identifies mechanisms through which traditional symbols are reinterpreted in the context of global fashion. Authentic embroidery is incorporated into minimalist silhouettes, local fabrics are combined with technical textiles, and regional color palettes are adapted to the Pantone color system. The study outlines three design strategies: reconstructive, hybrid, and conceptual. Each approach produces its own set of cultural identity markers. The integration of folk motifs is shown to strengthen national identity in post-colonial and conflict-related contexts while also serving as an instrument of soft cultural diplomacy.Conclusions. The research concludes that clothing serves as an effective channel of social communication that shapes perceptions of community and shared values. Political transformations influence design decisions by altering the symbolic meaning of colors, patterns, and cuts. The preservation of cultural codes through fashion maintains a balance between authenticity and global market requirements, supporting the economic resilience of local producers. The incorporation of folk elements into everyday wardrobes promotes the visibility of intangible cultural heritage and extends Ukraine’s reach in international cultural diplomacy. Fashion is positioned not only as an indicator of social change but also as a catalyst that generates new visual scenarios of collective identity. Ultimately, clothing functions both as a consumer product and as a tool of communication that contributes to shaping cultural awareness and social cohesion.